Jewelry for men has long been a distinctive form of self-expression. It has also been a symbol of wealth and status, as illustrated by the bejewelled men in European royal portraits from the late Renaissance period.
Today, antique men’s jewellery includes cufflinks and tie pins for formal wear, signet rings that display family coats of arms or are ready to be engraved by their owners and neck chains for everyday use.
Antique Men’s Jewellery
1. Tie Pins
A defining style symbol of the Victorian and Edwardian eras, the tie pin is not to be confused with the more common neck chain or cufflink. Also known as stick pins or cravat clips, they have a bar that is slipped through the centre of the tie to hold it in place.
Originally designed to keep the folds of the cravat secure, it was not long before the accessory was being worn as a way to add a bit of flair to plain ties and to show off personal expressions such as gemstones or monograms.
A classic accompaniment to three-piece suits and morning dresses, a tie pin is at home on Royal Ascot, Henley Regatta, or indeed any occasion that requires smart attire. Like a modern man’s dab of red lipstick or cocktail earrings, the pin is an understated but stylish accessory that instantly evokes confidence and understated cool. Choose from a wide range of designs, including intricately carved gold and silver motifs.
2. Signet Rings
In ancient times, signet rings were used to seal documents with their owners names and heraldic symbols They were also often passed down to family members as a mark of authority. They look magnificent but they were designed with a practical purpose in mind. The flat surface of the ring could be used to make an impression on wax, which was then used to authenticate bills of sale or other important documents. Silver is the most common material for signet rings, as it is cheaper than gold.
They’ve been seen on the fingers of countless men over the centuries and today they’re a fashionable accessory that adds a touch of elegance to any outfit. You can even engrave a date, initial or symbol to make yours a true one-of-a-kind. Choose from a variety of styles, including those that are plain, heraldic and more. You might even want to pick up a heraldic ring with your family’s coat of arms to feel like part of history.
3. Cufflinks
There are many different types of cufflinks. Some are a little more casual and you may get a cheap set from H&M that is made in a factory, whereas others will have a much more unique design, such as these stag’s head cufflinks that are hand-carved from sterling silver. These also have a very unusual locking mechanism, which is called a globe lock. There are many different locking mechanisms for cufflinks, including toggle buttons, curb chains and carved bridges.
Some cufflinks can be very expensive, depending on the materials used and whether they are made from precious metals like gold, silver, gemstones or tortoiseshell. Look for a stamp on the underside of the cufflink to indicate the material it is made from, as well as a hallmark mark such as an anchor or cross. Some cufflinks can be engraved, which is a very nice touch. Other cufflinks use a bullet backing, often with a heavy ball on the back to hold the cufflink in place and are commonly seen on black tie occasions.
4. Neck Chains
Men’s jewelry necklaces come in a variety of styles and lengths, are often made from gold or silver and can feature gemstones. The chain itself is an important piece and can be plain or elaborate with different fasteners, such as a claw clasp or a spring hinge. The chain is also a perfect place to hang pendants, which are more like charms than beads and are often engraved with initials or names.
A popular chain style is the Belcher chain, named after the Georgian-born boxer Jem Belcher. Consisting of thick, rounded links, it is the perfect chain for a strong masculine look. It is also the type of chain that many military personnel wear with their ID tags attached.
Another classic chain is the rope chain, which resembles a traditional rope with its flat links that join tightly together. Some are even twisted to add further definition. Also in this category are the natural bead chains that can be adorned with semi-precious stone beads or puka shells and are worn by surfers and hippies.
